Shooting in low light is an interesting task that gives us wings to the freedom of creativity. It is curious to realize that often the most beautiful images are not completely illuminated, clear and with bright skies. In addition to the intermediate hours - sunrise and sunset - it is common to find odd photos made in low light. Perhaps because of the scarcity of available light, photography can delight us, with its bottoms dotted with spots and traces of headlights.
Some notions for learning to shoot in low light
Attempt and error
Shooting in low light is easy. It is not enough just to count on the ambient lights and think that it forms a beautiful photograph, because they do not form. The composition - what is going to be showed in the photo - is essential, as well as the care with the exposure time. On manually controlled cameras this is a lot easier to do, but even the compact ones can deliver good results. The most important thing is, of course, to think about how you want the photo to go before you press the shutter button.
In scenes with very high contrast - very strong lights, such as street poles - it's a good idea to take the bulbs out of the frame. With this, the rest of the scenery has a much better view, as the glare of urban lighting will not steal the attention. Signs of shops and bars, fainter or distant lights, on the other hand, offer interesting colors and shapes and can transform an ordinary photo into a memorable image.
But the main thing is to find out how the camera behaves when photographing critical situations. Training a lot and make lots of bad pictures is a necessary step, and only after a lot of practice you will get really nice results, without mistake. The vast majority of photographers do this all the time. Take advantage of opportunities to test settings and image capture modes.
Themes in the dark
The amount of objects that can be photographed at night or in low light is as vast as the motifs for daytime pictures. Landscapes, portraits, details of the streets, all this offers many possibilities precisely because, at night, it is very different from what people are accustomed to see during the day. Exploring this strange familiarity is one of the secrets of night photography.In today's, give you with some easy-to-apply pointers or guidance for enhancing your Wild animals Photography on: http://drentchedphotography.com/best-canon-camera-for-wildlife-photography/.
The night light
Just as during the day the photographer worries about the position of the Sun, at night it is necessary to pay attention to the Moon and where it is in the sky. Although the intensity of light is much smaller, the moon also causes shadows, just as the star closest to the planet. When high in the sky, the Moon produces relatively hard, short, sharp and well defined shadows. As the satellite approaches the horizon, the shadows lengthen and become softer.
Another important detail: the closer to buildings and other human elements the Moon is, the greater it will appear in relation to these. The phase of the moon also matters, since the intensity of reflection will be less outside the full moon, and - for all intents and purposes - nonexistent on the new moon. In addition, since the exposures are longer, when the time with the open shutter exceeds two minutes, the probability of the Moon appearing deformed increases, as this is the approximate time it takes to travel its own diameter in the celestial cycle.
But the stars practically do not influence the nocturnal photos, except as points of light in the sky. However, just like the moon, the stars also travel in the celestial vault, and the further away from the equator line you are, the greater the perception of that movement. Often, the risks generated by the stars increase the photo in a dramatically way, giving a feeling of dizziness. However, this is not always the purpose of the photo, so attention and care are recommended.
The long exposure
Even compact cameras have long exposure modes, and for low light shooting, it's virtually mandatory. Hardly a photo is taken in less than 15 or 20 seconds - by coincidence the maximum shooting time of some older compacts. With this, it is important to realize that some characteristics of the photos will be different: movements will be trembling, cars and other moving objects illuminated will leave traces of light, and the composition of the image should take all these effects into account.
As in this type of exposure, the sensor receives small amounts of light over a long period; the colors represented are very different from those obtained during the day. Even if they are not so contrasted - difference between light and dark - the images have a very strong saturation, with very vivid colors. This should be part of the night photographer's concern as well, as it can determine a better angle for certain photos, in search for even more vibrant colors.
In the days of analog photography, movies used for low-light photos had a feature called grain. The image obtained in these films resembled a pointillist painting, made just by pressing the pencil on the paper. The digital sensor, however, does not have the chemistry that was responsible for this effect, and as it depends on the light to form an image, in low light conditions some defects may arise. All these problems are known as noise.
In more modern cameras, various electronic and computer systems help prevent the appearance of the famous green and red dots characteristic of photos with noise problems. The appearance of these occurs due to the approximate calculation that the camera performs to try to identify visual information in areas of the sensor that did not receive sufficient light.
Another type of noise that is very common in low-light images is due to sensor overheating. Like all chips, the ideal operation of this equipment occurs in a certain temperature range. Since the night exposures are very long, the sensor spends a lot of time in operation, overheating. Unlike the green and red dots caused by the processor, the noise generated in the sensor creates distortions of intensity and contrast in the colors.
To solve noise problems, it is ideal to use a lower ISO value, which avoids the formation of colored dots thanks to the action of the processor, and to shoot in RAW to try to minimize the impact of the sensor on color aberrations in the final image. If the camera does not offer these possibilities, shoot at the highest quality possible, to be able to treat the image after downloading it to your computer